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There are .35g of arachidic acid per 100g serving of hemp seeds, which is a saturated VLCFA commonly found in peanuts. It is often used in the manufacture of pharmaceuticals, soaps, cosmetics and food packaging.

 

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Before dealing with the other letters and what not, make sure that you are checking your pH levels which will determine how much nutrients your plant will be able to take in. Avoid soil testers which are inaccurate, but use a cheap liquid test, or if you can afford it, a digital one which will be cheaper in the long run for someone who like keeps growing weed on and on. Remember, blood meal and peat moss and other similar grow additives can throw off your pH. Also can adding nutrients so keep them around a level of 5-7 and a TDS range of 800-3000 PPM. For soil grows, keep a level of pH around 6.8 which makes it easy for all nutrients to be absorbed without being locked out. Other mediums should be around 5.8

manganese, nitrogen,phosphorous,potassium,magnesium,calcium, zinc, iron,sulfur,boron,copper, molybdenum,

Nickel is required by plants for proper seed germination Symptoms include chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis in young leaves that that goes down to plant tissue necrosis,poor seed germination and decreases in crop yield.

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First, start by preventing rabbits from wanting to be near your plant. Keep grass short and remove any plant debri that can used for shelter, and fill any holes with gravel. During spring and summer, rabbits will be pilfering flower gardens, nibbling seedlings,eating grass,alfalfa,clover,beans,peas,cabbage and lettuce. In the fall and winter, clipping twigs,chewing woody plants and shrubs,girdling bark of young trees and burrowing. Use rabbt traps (but be sure to check laws in your area) f youonly have a few to worry about mae a barrer around your yard with scented repellants spray your plant wth lqud repellant but avod the buds and dont do ths after flowering also t s nd of a last resort method and dangerout snce the predaator wll basically be on your plant before you get there. A great method is the use of a sprinkler that shoots out random water and noied to scare pasts away or one emiting a high pitch sound constantly.   A mesh fence is also effective but only whenn buring 10 inches below the ground and is 2-3 feet tall especially areas where it will snow. Rabbits are more inclined to younger and more vulnerable plants so save money by only guarding those . Recognize rabbit bites by diagonal cuts normally a foot or lower on the plant. Rabbits should be remved swiftly if they are in large numbers, 1 couple can produce 18 babies per year. Dried blood, putrescent egg and other smells similar to dead and decaying animals. This makes rabbits think there is a predator near feasting and sends them the opposite way. Once a population of rabbits is established, chemical repellants will have less and less effect as the rabbits catch on to your ship. Keep loose debri out of your guards and be sure rabbits can't apply force to your fence to reach the plant. Runnng towards teh rabbit usually works too, you can even just keep a dog outside if yu want but it may bring you a rabbit back.

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Copper plays a big role in producing healthy plants, stems, branches and new growths, as well as in plants reproduction and maturity and also assists in carbohydrate metabolism and oxygen reduction.Copper deficiency plants shows lack of growth, growth tips die back, green leaves will show bluish hue and plants may have a hard time showing maturity in vegging stages.

Copper deficient plants cause irregular growth and wilting in newer growth. The Leaves at top will wilt easily along with bleaching (chlorosis) and necrotic areas in the leaves. Leaves on the top of the plant may show veinal chlorosis.Growth and yield will be diminished Too much copper in the system will cause the plant to die, as if it was a poison.Near death the plant will induce iron deficiencies and the root system will decay along with abnormal size of the roots, along with little side branching.

 Some new growths may not open up, along with becoming thin pale green to a bluish hue.Copper is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 5.0-7.5 Copper is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at pH levels of 2.0-6.0 .treat a copper deficiency by foliar feeding with Copper Sulphate, Cu chelates, can also be used in soil. Any nutrients with copper in them will fix a copper deficiency. Other nutrients are: Granular, Garden Manure, Greensand. Damaged leaves will NOT recover.

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Potassium supports thick them growth, photosynthesis, water restoration and disease resistance and can be found in the entire plant, necessary for all actions dealing with water transportation. This is necessary in all stages, but mostly in bud development. Retarded growth with scorched tips and edges on leaves is a sign, as well as stretching plants that become thin and brittle. This is confused with iron, but with potassium the tips of leaves curl while edges burn and die. Older leaves may show red color and curl upwards. Dead patched (Necrosis) may appear on larger fan leaves, killing them and turning them brown. Older leaves also show different patches of color (mottle), turning yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves turning dark yellow and dying. Overall growth is slow in vegetative and during flowering. Your first sign is dark edges around the leaves.

Really low humidy is a major cause since your potassium is sweat out through the plant to keep it cool. Too much calcium or ammonium nitrogen as well as cold weather make it harder to be absorbed as well as too much sodium causing it to be displaced. Effects will mainly be on older leaves and margins. Too much potassium leads to salt damage and acid fixation of roots as well as calcium deficiency. Leaves will show a light to dark yellow color between veins. Molecular imbalance can cauce reduced uptake and lead to deficiencies magnesium, manganese, zinc, calcium and iron. Potassium absorbs best around pH levels of 6-9.5 in soil and in soilless mediums between 4.7-5.3 and 6.7-8.5, try not to go over 6.5

Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food, Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption and can bring your pH down ,Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your pH as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

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Phosphorous aids in root growth and vigor, being one of the most important elements in flowering and germination. This is essential and needed in large amounts so considered a macronutrient, also majorly important in reproductive stages. Deficiencies will reduce the size of your plant and cause it to be lows and weak, leaves may drop off and the edges around leaves will be brownish, working inward causing the leaf to curl up. Fan leaves will become dark green,purple and yellow with a dull  blue occasionally. Affected leaves will never recover and should be removed carefully so that they aren't taking your plants energy for no reason. Stems and petioles also can turn red, but some strains do this naturally. The sides of the leaves may have a glassy feeling. Cold weather below 50F can also make it more difficult for your plant to absorb phosphorous. Do not get this confused with a fungus problem where damage spreads farther and into the buds.

Too much phosphorous can suppress the take of iron, potassium, copper and zinc, where zinc deficiency is most common this way. When combines with calcium, phosphorous is known to fluctuate. Best absorbed in pH level of 6-7.5, not recommended to go over 7, anything else will result in deficiency. In hydro systems, pH levels between 4-5.8 are ideal.

Use an N-P-K ratio over 5 like Peters 20 20 20, Miracle Grow, Miracle Grow Tomato, bone meal gradual (quicker if made into tea), fruit eating bat guano is fast, worm castings are gradual, fish meal is medium, soft rock phosphate is medium, Jamaican and Indonesian guano is fast, cartel is slow, tiger bloom is fast. When using chemical formulas, dilute at least 50%. Other chemical formulas include 054 Bloom, Vita Bloom (0-7-5), BC Bloom(1.1-4.4-7), GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4), GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14), GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7),Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6),Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4), Awesome Blossoms Organic formulas will include: Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6), Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7),AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5),Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1),Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1),ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10),Pure Blend Bloom (2-3-5), Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0.2), Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0), Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)

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Nitrogen is the sole chemical responsible for the production of chlorophyll, amino acids and photosynthesis. Basically, responsible for the growth of the plant, producing the food it lives off of and how healthy the plant is overall. It is the largest element that can travel to any part of the plant. You will first notice deficiency in the lower to middle part of the plant, taking out older leaves first. Yield can be greatly reduced and your leaves will turn violet, Violet and more yellow. To keep from being confused with a magnesium deficiency, remember that magnesium will turn the entire leaf yellow excluding veins, white nitrogen deficiency starts at the tips and works on the back of leaves. You can also noticeably tell by the reduced growth rate that it is nitrogen. Towards the middle to end of flowering, your plant will experience nutrient deficiency with the yellowing and following of leaves, however, this is normal and should NOT be treated. You need the chemicals to wash out anyways. In rare cases, Nitrogen deficiency can also effect petioles.

Too much nitrogen in plants are dark green with delayed maturity because plants will focus on growing upwards with tall, weak stems. New growth should be very active and plant transpiration is usually high. Nitrogen toxicity is seen in very dry conditions, such as in a drought and leaves could appear burned. Ammonium based nutrients may show NH4+ toxicity, causing smaller plant growth and lesions on stems and roots as well as downward rolled leaf margins, giving a claw look. Tips will point down, though leaves are up and can even be twisted. Roots however are under developing and flowering is delayed, so decreased yields. Water uptake is decreased from vascular breakdown. Both potassium and nitrogen will cause calcium lockout when over supplied. Flush your plant with plain water. Using organic grow mediums makes it easier to deal with deficiencies. When flushing your soil, use an amount of water at least double the size of your grow medium. You may need to carefully shimmy and remove your plant from its pot to get thorough results.

Your plant being to cold will make it harder for your plant to absorb nitrogen. Also, keep your pH around 6-8 in soil grows, preferable under 7 to avoid lockout. Hydro and soilless mediums should be around 5.5 to 8, though under 6.5 is better. Ammonium nitrogen can affect other nutrients and delay flowering, but can be fixed by giving your plant more rational ratios of each main chemical. Chemical or organic fertilizers with nitrogen in them will fix a deficiency. Peters 20-20-20, Miracle Grow, Miracle Grow Tomato are all good for this, though when using chemicals use it at at least 1/2 dilution. To use blood meal 12 0 0 to quickly solve a deficiency,making it into a tea first makes it work much quicker, other wise absorption is pretty gradual and a great source for phosphorous. Other sources include Bone Meal(0-10-0), cotton seed meal (slow) , insect eating bat guano 10 2 0(fast),etc. Fish meal and emulsion 5 1 1 is medium speed, worm castings are gradual, seabird guano and crab shell are slow and Fox Farm Grow Big is fast, though can bring down pH. More chemical nutrients include:Humboldt Nutrients (2-1-6), Floragro (2-1-6), MaxiGro (10-5-14), Age old Grow (12-6-6), Floranova (7 4 10), Dyna Gro (7 9 5 ). Organic nutrients include Marine Cuisine 10 7 7,Seaweed Plus Iron,   Iguana Juice Grow (3-1-3), Pure Blend Pro (3-1.5-4), 30-0.25-0.25 Age Old Kelp, Neptune's Harvest 2-3-1, Bio Thrive Grow 4-3-3, Mother Earth Grow (1.5-.75-1.5), MaxiCrop Seaweed (1-0-3), Super Tea (5-5-1), Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-.2), Kelp Meal (0.6-0.5-2.5). Remember, blood meal, dried blood, guano, kelp meal, cotton seed meal, peat moss, sulfer and fish meal will all bring your pH up while bone meal, rock phosphate, wood ashes and shellfish compost will make your pH go up.

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 Nopest  strips emit a powerful vapor that should only be used if you are not breathing the air they are in. Floramite is also very strong with harsh chemicals and should only be used as a last resort. It is expensive but effective. Bleach solution one tablespoon per on gallon of 95 F pH balanced water in mister should be used on plant and surrounding grow area. You can also use alcohol with 30% water or more. 

fungus gnats, aphids,spider mites,white flies,thrips,slugs

rabbits

White mold/mildew,bud rot

overwatering,underwatering,pH inbalance,

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Root rot is a condition more common on indoor plants with improper drainage and hydroponic systems caused by low oxygen mostly caused by temperature since low temperatures lower dissolved  oxygen while high temperatures cause low levels, so keep temperature between 65-72F. This is often caused by Pythiaceae water mould including the genus pythium which was once classified as a fungus since if responds to many treatments similarly. It is part of the parasitic oomycete class that's considered microorganisms. This is typically reversible and can be prevented easily by creating an environment is simply can not survive in. This includes not letting your roots ever just sit in water.

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or grey mold is common and causes blights such as botrytis cinerea. This is a large problem for cannabis and also grapes, strawberries and peonies, but in references to cannabis it is usually called bud rot. Keep your plants warm, well ventilated and generally dry. Remove infected bud immediately. Usually bigger, dense buds are sadly more likely to get infected, but a rainy day can cause patches all over the plant. Darking,discoloration and drying are signs of infection. Deadened spots will stand out, but white mold is the first sign you can see and should be treated immediately to save yourself a lot of heart ache.  Look for white and fluffy buds, grey, brown, or purple buds and speckled, dusty buds. It starts as a fluffy white growth in the middle of your buds, making it hard to catch early unless you see some on the sides. This quickly becomes grey or brown, burrowing deep in the bud. The fungus spore is usually carried through wind or dirty rain water, so it is pretty hard to get on indoor plants unless you have brought outside, inside somehow. Keep air moving too so that spores never get a chance to settle and grow. Dormant spores are able to survive for a long time. Your plant also needs a wound of some sort for the fungus to get in, like from a caterpillar, training the plant, white powdery mildew and such forth, so an unwounded plant has no risk. 60-70 F is a problem temperature as well as high humidity or weather causing your plant to be wet for a long time. Your colas that are super dense stay moist inside throughout, so are big problem areas. Removing infected buds is the only way to prevent the spread since there really isn't a way yo reverse the effects, only halt them.

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White flies 

are extremely similar to spider mites and sometimes fungus gnats in action, dawning the appearance of little white moths two millimeters and size. They suck nutrients from your plant and can be easily dislodged by shaking the plant, then they fly around waiting to sit on it again. Best way to get rid of these is SM90 right before you're turning the lights off in a 1/5th dilution. Be sure to get the undersides of leaves where eggs are hiding. Like spider mites, they also quickly build an adaption to whatever kill method you use, so you may even want to approach it organically since these bugs are just so strong and annoying. They secretly honeydew like aphids which also comes with more problems like mold and other pests coming by to swoop that sticky icky up, not to mention the potential diseases on their feet.  They are found year round in outdoor gardens of southern and coastal , but in Northern areas they are only possible indoors. They are attracted to over 250 plant species including vegetable and ornamental, most commonly investing grape, poinsettia, potato, citrus, tomato and hibiscus plants. They will be found near the tops of plants. Wingless nymphs will be flat, oval and almost scale like. In their crawler stage, they settle and attach to undersides of leaves to feed. In late spring, adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on undersides of upper leaves. In 5-10 days, eggs hatch and resemble small mealy bugs, moving a short distance from the eggs before flattening. Remaining nymphal stages 2 3 and 4 will not move, followed by a non feeding pupal stage, then in a week young adults. Nymphal stages are almost translucent and basically blend with the plant. The entire growth process is about 25 days, then they live 1 or 2 more months. Preventative methods include yellow sticky traps, the bug blaster which is a specialized water hose for removing bugs, and predators such as lady bugs,birds and lacewings. For heavy infestations, use Neem oil, botanical insecticide, insecticidal soap after using a least toxic short lived organic pesticide. Horticultural oils will smother pests to death so it is effective on adults and babies.

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In many seed banks you will see feminized seeds for sale which guarantee a high amount of females. Feminized seeds are made when female plants are pollinated by hermaphrodites, which are females that grew male sex organs after being stressed. The resulting seeds are much more likely to be females, however, these plants are also much more likely to turn into hermaphrodites when given the smallest amount of stress, such as a power outage. This means seeds and less potent weed. GROSS. Because of this, it is more economical to use clones from a female mother plant to get multiple females, opposed to buying seeds that can easily become eh. We prefer to not have seeds in our marijuana for obvious reasons and it does in fact decrease the potency of your marijuana when the plant has to deflect energy into seed growth opposed to buds.

Cloning is an easier option which can be done to any degree of insanity to reach the produce you need. Of course, you take clones from a very favorable female plant which can be up to thousands since you are able to keep one marijuana plant alive for years by keeping it on a vegetative life cycle. This is great because you always know what kind of plant it is going to be and won't have to risk males at all. Hermaphrodites can always be caused by stress, but it will be a lot harder than if starting with a feminized seed prone to it.

Silver Thiosulfate Solution is sprayed on female plants to turn them into males, which will produce all female seeds.